The Fresh Market is dead this time of night. Most people complete their grocery shopping early in the morning, or shortly after work. Of course, many grocery stores do not have windows to the outside world, so if you were stuck in the aisles for many hours, you may lose track of time. When you finally leave, it may be days from when you arrived.
Tonight, I am not wearing a watch, and my phone is dead, so I'm left to judge the passage of time from the cycles of my panic attacks that have spun for at least an hour. I'm in the dairy aisle, and I am panicking because there is nothing here that I can buy.
I have recently become a vegan, and it is today that I finally realize the true tragedy of this lifestyle- the prohibition of cheese.
The majority of my life has been spent consuming bountiful amounts of grilled cheese sandwiches with avocado and provolone, homemade macaroni and cheese, cheese eggs, pizza, warm goat cheese salads, fettuccine alfredo, mozzarella sticks- the list could go on forever. Few days have gone by in my life where I have not consumed cheese of some kind at least once, but for the past couple of weeks, this constant pattern in my life has been cut short.
Right now, in front of the frosty, neon-lit case of sealed bags of cheddar, pepper jack, provolone, and havarti, my eyes begin to well with the profound feeling of loss. A single tear falls from each eye and lands with a quiet splash on the package of neufchâtel I am holding.
Out of the corners of my eyes, I see fellow shoppers staring at me with looks of pity, or amusement. They do not know my plight, how dare they judge me.
"Vesti La Giubba" begins to surround me, perhaps from another dimension, or perhaps from the store Muzak stereo. How fitting the song is for my despair- the notion of smiling on the outside, but weeping bitterly within. Pavarotti's aria fills my ears with sorrow as I understand that I cannot continue this life much longer...the portrait of happiness, pure plant-based health on the outside, but in my heart I am devastated by this loss of my truest joy.
As my breathing begins to shake with the inevitable sobs that will overcome me, I feel a gentle touch on my shoulder. I am startled. Slowly, I turn around to face this person.
It's Joaquin Phoenix.
Bearded, wearing a red flannel and his sunglasses, and holding a small goat under one arm. My brow furrows as I stare at him, perplexed.
"Joaquin," I say, "What are you doing here?"
The goat bleats, and Joaquin smiles. He places a finger to my lips.
"You need to follow me now, child," he whispers. I nod, speechless.
He reaches for my hand, and I glance down at the basket I'm holding, which so far, contains avocados and lentils.
"Can I....can I bring this?"
Joaquin shrugs. "If you want," he says, "But know that far greater treasures await you than dried beans and overripe stonefruits."
I look down at my avocados. "How do you know they're overripe?" Does he have X-ray vision?
"You can tell by checking where the stem has been broken off...if it's green there, then you know it's ready. If it's brown, you've waited too long. Yours are brown, as far as I can tell."
Shit.
I place my basket on the ground next to the cheese cooler. Then I take Joaquin's hand, and follow him and the goat down the aisle.
We weave through various aisles of Fresh Market. No one seems to notice us or the goat. Where could he possibly be taking me? Finally, we arrive at the world foods aisle. Mexican, Asian, Mediterranean, and Dutch delicacies line the shelves. I want a bottle of Jarritos, but Joaquin cautions me that I cannot touch anything in this aisle, not yet.
We stop walking.
"Wait a moment," Joaquin says. "Hold Rutabaga." He holds the miniature goat out to me. I take Rutabaga, who looks at me curiously through sideways pupils.
Joaquin fumbles through his pockets for something. Out of nowhere, he produces a tinfoil hat, and hands to me. I exchange the goat for the hat, and place it securely on my head.
"Is this one of the originals from the set?" I ask.
He looks puzzled. "Hmm?"
"You know, from
Signs?"
He chuckles. "Oh no," he says, "I made that one at my house."
Joaquin picks up a bottle of Sriracha, and hands it to me.
"Now, I want you to turn around in a circle three times, and then place it back on the shelf."
"Um..."
"It's very important that you spin exactly three times. Slowly."
I take the Sriracha from him, and do as he says. Then I put the bottle back on the shelf from which it came.
Joaquin smiles lazily, and I swear, so does Rutabaga.
"Now, my child," he says, "We are going home."
Okay...
I follow him towards the end of the aisle. I can't put my finger on it, but something seems different about the store now. The lights seem brighter, yet softer, less fluorescent. The air no longer smells of bleach, but of freshly baked bread. I hear the sounds of happy chatter, of laughter.
We emerge into the open part of the store, and I am astounded by what I see.
Rows and rows of organic vegetables, their shiny skins glistening in the large windows in the produce section. Hipsters in flannel and vintage leather, mulling around the bins, examining enormous heads of cauliflower. Joaquin leads me to the produce.
"See?" he says, pointing at the avocados. "All of them are perfect, every single one." And they are. I pick off some of the stems, and they are all bright green.
The fruit section is full of strange and wonderful things, starfruits with a waxy yellow skin, dragonfruits that are fresh, bright pink. The bananas are all perfectly underripe, and the oranges are all flawlessly round and unbruised.
We make our way to the bread section. Fresh crispy baguettes, plump loaves of sourdough, and pillowy rolls. The baker standing behind the counter smiles widely with beautiful ivory teeth, her dreadlocks falling over her shoulders, as she hands me a slice of organic, vegan banana bread. I taste it, and I feel euphoria engulf me.
Where the speciality cheese and deli should be, there is a hummus section, and it stretches as far as the eye can see: beet, white bean, roasted red pepper, black bean, edamame, as well as many other flavors I've never seen in my life.
"Where are we, Joaquin?" I ask.
"The D&W Fresh Market on Knapp street," he answers.
"No, but really? What is this place? Why is it so different, and so perfect?"
He smiles wisely. "This is the way every grocery store should be. Plant-based, free of the remnants of animal slaughter. Tell me, do you see any fresh meats? Chicken? The lobster tank?"
We walk towards that section, and it is nowhere to be found. No animal graveyards! Instead, there are coolers full of meat alternatives, Beyond Beef, Morningstar Farms, Amy's Kitchen frozen meals. I gasp. This place is wonderful. Instead of sad Italian operas, I hear an angelic piano tune on the Muzak. I feel at home, at peace.
Joaquin leads me to where the dairy aisle should be, and instead of regular milk and butter, there are endless soy and nut alternatives. But then I glance at the cheese section, which looks surprisingly similar.
"Do not be fooled...it's not what you think," Joaquin says.
I walk over to the cheese bin, and behold, it is not cheese I see, but cheese alternatives: fake mozzarella, provolone, vegan cream cheese, Daiya shreds.
I sigh. "These are beautiful, Joaquin."
"Aren't they?"
"But...I'm not so sure about these cheese alternatives, you know. Sometimes they just taste like rubber...or nothing at all. I'm impressed by the variety, for sure, but I cannot stand to make a cheese sauce with my macaroni with these. Believe me, I've tried, and it's just...not right."
Joaquin nods, understandingly.
"Please," I say, "Isn't there something that I can take solace in? Some sort of cheese substitute that truly satisfies my cravings? There must be."
He smiles.
"Well then...let me show you something."
He takes my hand again, and Rutabaga trots behind us as we head towards the dry goods area, the center of the store. As we walk, grocery store patrons smile and wave, and free sample workers hand us tiny cups of fried tempeh, vegan pudding, tiny vegetable kebabs. I'm no longer hungry, which is great, but the craving for cheese has not subsided.
We reach the baking goods aisle, where there is a bounty of vegan chocolate chips and baking additions, pie crusts made without butter. Gluten free flour, which two happy hipsters are holding bags of, laughing joyously. Ylvis' "Intolerant" plays on the speakers.
At the end of the aisle, there are bags and bags of grains, flour, quinoa, all sorts of goods. Joaquin picks up small bag filled with yellow flakes.
"This," he says, "is what you've been looking for."
I slowly take the bag from him, and examine the label.
Nutritional Yeast.
"What is this?" I ask. I adjust the tinfoil hat on my head, which has become somewhat itchy.
"Nutritional Yeast," Joaquin says, in a mystified tone of voice.
"Well, yeah...I can see that. But what is it?"
"Also known as Nooch."
"Okay. But, what does it do?"
"Oh, my child," he chuckles. "It's everything. All that the Nooch touches takes on that rich, umami taste of cheese. It will return to you the joy you have lost, and you will want for nothing in your vegan way of life."
I hold the Nooch in my hands. The bag is light, and I shake the contents around.
"Are you sure?" I ask, "It doesn't look like it will help. I mean, it just looks like yellow dandruff."
Joaquin laughs. "Trust me."
Once again, out of nowhere, he produces a bowl of familiar-looking macaroni and cheese.
"Is that Kraft Dinner?"
He hands me the warm bowl. "It only appears that way."
"Is it vegan?"
"Yes."
"Ugh, I hope it's not any more of that coconut milk cheese sauce. Can't stand that," I mutter.
I pick up the spoon and taste the pasta. It can't be.
The taste of cheese, creamy, and sharp, overpowers my senses. I am overwhelmed with nostalgia for a time before this vegan diet, before I lost the love of my life- forever, I thought. How wrong I was. I This tastes exactly like a creamy cheese sauce that I would make for my pasta. It even looks like macaroni and cheese, if the cheese weren't exactly as smooth. This just seems impossible; to get a flavor of cheese this accurate would take black magic, I'm sure.
I understand now that Joaquin was right. This is, indeed, what I've been searching for for so long. I begin to feel the pieces of my life fall back into place, the nagging panic subside in my chest. I can feel whole again. I don't have to sacrifice flavor and my favorite food for my happiness. The alternate universe of the vegan Fresh Market feels like a safe, warm place, where all my dreams could come true.
I understand now. Nooch is love. Nooch is life. I shall live and die by the Nooch.
"I love it."
"It's a sauce made with cashews, soy milk, carrots, and the Nooch," Joaquin explains. "If you've got a good food processor, you can make it at home. It will be like no Kraft Dinner you've ever had in your life."
I take a few more bites.
"Hmm. So, can I buy it?" I ask, handing the bowl back to Joaquin. He takes it from me, and places it on the floor for Rutabaga to finish off, which he does, gladly.
"Certainly."
I pick up a few bags of Nutritional Yeast, and place them in a basket that magically appears on the floor to my right, half full of organic, vegan treats that I planned to purchase, but could not find in the real Fresh Market.
Joaquin leads me towards the checkout.
"Wait," I say, grabbing his arm. He turns to look at me. "When I leave here, what will happen- will the outside be the same as it was before? Will my life be different? Will the Nooch disappear?"
He smiles at me gently again. "The world outside remains the same. When you leave the store, everything you buy will stay with you. The store will return to its natural state, and you will leave me in this parallel universe." He removes the tinfoil hat from my head, and crumples it, placing it back in his pocket.
I sigh, and stare at him. I reach out to pet Rutabaga, who Joaquin is now holding.
"I'll miss you, Joaquin. I'll never forget this journey."
Rutabaga squeals. Joaquin squeezes my hand gently, blue eyes staring back into mine. "I will miss you too, my young traveler."
"Will I ever see you guys again?"
"If you wish to return, just find the Sriracha, and perform the spell. You will find me."
I smile, and turn back to the checkout. Looking back at the actor and his goat, I wave. "Thank you, Joaquin, you too, Rutabaga!"
They watch me go, and I purchase my groceries.
Just as Joaquin said, the parking lot is the same as I left it. It's around 10:30 p.m. now, and I've only been in the store for half an hour, but it feels like I've been gone forever. I load up the car with my groceries and head home.
That night, I prepare a Nooch mac and cheese, and settle in for a relaxing night of Netflix. After I charge my phone, I check my e-mails for anything I have missed while I was out.
There's one e-mail in my inbox, from Joaquin Phoenix. The subject line reads, "To Maria." I open it, and it's a YouTube link.
Dear traveler:
Here's the link to the documentary, Earthlings, if you haven't watched it already. I narrated it, in case you didn't know. Anyway, I hope you enjoy, and make sure you share it on Facebook and stuff. I hope our paths cross again soon.
Your friend,
Joaquin Phoenix
xoxo
I laugh a little, and return to Netflix. My macaroni tastes wonderful. I have a feeling I will be enjoying grocery shopping a lot more from now on.